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The top street of this
village is the horrible road from Woodbridge to
Aldeburgh
and Orford,
but once you get down into the valley it
is a surprisingly lovely and peaceful
place, a twin to Ufford,
across the river Deben. The church is
down a quiet lane, on a mound, suggesting
an ancient site. It is dedicated to the
patron saint of East Anglia. I first
visited this church on New Years Day
2000, and was pleased to be the first of
the new century to sign the visitors
book. In fact, this church has few
visitors. Possibly because it is hidden
from view; and, perhaps, that it has none
of the glories of its near neighbour Ufford.
This is a pity, because it is a rather
lovely little church, with some
interesting features. The
tower is typically East Anglian 15th
century, but not large. The tower was
built in the 1450s and 1460s, and has a
curious little pyramid on top of it, that
may be an 18th century embellishment. The
most striking thing as you approach is
that there are hardly any windows in the
north wall of the nave. A
strange brick course extends upwards from
the blocked north door. It is the outside
wall of a chimney flue. An unusual modern
vestry
adjoins the 19th century chancel. I am
told that, when it was built, a number of
skeletons were found; but, because this
is the north side of the church, and
those in charge thought them either
suicides or the unbaptised, they were
reburied without ceremony.
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The
south porch is a handsome red brick affiar, and
it shelters a Norman doorway. It is rather
primitive compared with those further north in
East Anglia, but an unusual survival in this area
where so many churches were almost completely
rebuilt. The interior, however, is almost
entirely Victorian, strikingly narrow under a
high pitched roof. The Victorian skylights at the
east end make up for the lack of windows. The
angels are mostly fibreglass copies of the two at
the far east. These were carved in the 1920s by
the carpenter-vicar of Eyke, the
Reverend Darling. The story goes that they were
originally made for the church at Rendlesham, but
turned out to be the wrong scale, so were
presented to this church instead. You can see
much more of his work in his own church. The
angels carry shields, and a key to these is on
the wall.
The
late medieval font also carries the
iconography of power: this time, of church and
state. Behind the font, below the tower, there
are two curious holes about two metres from the
floor, one in the south wall and one in the
north. The one in the south has a 12th century
head below it; although shallow, it looks as
though it might have been a decorated corbel of some
kind. The holes are about 15cm square, and go
back a long way into the wall. The packing at the
far end suggests that they might once have gone
through to the outside.If they were directly
opposite each other, you would instantly guess
that they had held the two ends of a beam,
perhaps supporting a floor. But they are not. Mortlock thought
they might have been squints, but it is hard to
think this likely.
The
chancel windows
are memorials to the King family, who provided
vicars here throughout the 19th century. There
are still modern King graves in the churchyard.
The
greatest treasure of this church is not generally
available to see. This is the famous Mechlin
bell. This bell is decorated with two scenes of
rosary mysteries, the Annunciation and the
Presentation, as well as the flight into Egypt,
and St Michael confronting a dragon. On it, in
old Flemish, is written Jesus am I, cast by
Cornelis Waghevens in the year of Our Lord 1530.
When I first came this way ten years ago, I was
intrigued to find out if it was still in situ.
Cautley saw the
bell during his 1930s survey, but I could find no
mention of it in modern guides. Did it still
exist? Had something forced its removal and
possible loss during the intervening 70 years?
Fortunately,
after I first uplinked this page, two very kind
people from St Edmund contacted me, to not only
reassure me that the bell still existed, but
offering to show it to me. I was very excited;
although I have no head for heights, the inside
of church towers always fascinate me. Also, the
Mechlin bell is a major medieval art object; I
would certainly go and see it if it was in the
V&A, so here was a chance not to be missed.
We
climbed the winding stair, the steps renewed
since the tower was built, presumably at the
Victorian restoration. When we reached the floor
of the bell chamber, there was another surprise
in store. A crumpled length of dusty metal turned
out to be, on inspection, an old decalogue
board. It was one of a pair, the other
now vanished. These boards listed the Ten
Commandments, and often the Creed and Our Father
as well. They were found at the east end of every
Anglican church throughout the 17th, 18th and
19th centuries; some still survive there today.
This particular board was an enamelled zinc
sheet, commonly found in Suffolk, but more often
transferred to the west wall after the influence
of the Oxford Movement had
encouraged a more sacramental approach to
worship. The wooden base of this sheet stood
beside it, and was presumably removed from the
chancel at the time the King family led a
makeover in the 1870s.
| But on we went, up a narrow
ladder, on to the medieval bell-frame.
This frame of narrow planks sits about 15
feet above the bell-chamber floor,
perhaps 50 feet above ground. I balanced
myself precariously on a timber to
examine the gorgeous bell. The side I'd
climbed features the Annunciation panel,
and the end of the inscription, including
the date. You can see the photographs
above - taken, I am afraid, in
pre-digital days. I
'm afraid that my nervousness prevented
me climbing across the bell frame to
photograph the other side, but what I'd
seen delighted me. The bell frame
contains two bells, although the tower
contains space for a third. There was
only space for two when Cautley saw them
in the early 1930s, before they were
rehung. The other bell is perhaps 200
years older than the Mechlin bell, but it
is, unfortunately, cracked. Cautley
deciphered a request for St Paul to pray
for us, in Lombardic script.
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