St Mary, Burgate |
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www.suffolkchurches.co.uk - a journey through the churches of Suffolk |
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Just south of the
strange landscape of Wortham Common, and away from the
horrible A143, head south towards Mellis, and not long
after, you will see this ship of a church riding the
western fields. The view is quintessentially East
Anglian, a great medieval tower raised above simple
houses with a pink farmhouse to the west, all gathered
between hedgerows and barley fields. There is no big
house, no great hall, just the homes of the ordinary
people. What a sight it must be if you have been away
from it for very long! You step into a
screened area at the west end of the church, designed in
the style of a baptistery as at Gosbeck. But this is
altogether on a grander scale, and beyond the lovely
font, with its dedicatory inscription to the Burgates,
there is another screened area, which we will also come
back to in a moment. The former vestry in the south-west
corner, which I had seen in 2002, has now gone, to be
replaced by a meeting room and kitchen conversion beneath
the tower. The west end now feels more open, but the
devotional organ screen is still a memory of the Church
of England as it was half a century ago. Perhaps you will be fortunate enough to see it, and and let me know of its current state. And yet, even while taking it in I fear you will be entirely distracted by the quite extraordinary side altar set against the north wall of the chancel. It is a shrine, a chapel of remembrance to those named on the memorial in the porch. It is the work of the Reverend Appleyard, who came here in 1919, and who was largely responsible for the Anglo-catholic makeover that this place received, and from which it has never really recovered. The thing that makes it remarkable is that all the candlesticks and furnishings are made out of shell-cases, supposedly by soldiers in a field hospital in Flanders where Appleyard was chaplain. He built the altar itself, which is set in the entrance to a former chapel, not an Easter sepulchre, as several guides suggest. If you look just behind it to the east, you'll see his helmet. Another remarkable feature of the altar is that, as well as naming the local lads who were slaughtered in northern France, it also carries the names of the two medieval de Burgates. And, as if that was not enough, St Edmund, King and Martyr. I suppose that they all died in battle of a kind. The little figure of the French Saint Bernadette was also presumably brought back from the killing fields. If you want to see
what Appleyard looked like, his portrait is up in the
screened off area to the west of the main entrance, along
with all Burgate's other Priests back into the 19th
century. Back in 2002, the then-churchwarden showed them
to me, pointing out that Appleyard was 'a bit of a
tyrant'. He sounded as if he was speaking from memory.
This area was Appleyard's chapel of St Edmund, a neat
solution in a church with no aisles.It is a beautiful
devotional space used for small-scale services which take
place beneath an icon of the patron saint. Simon Knott, July 2019 Follow these journeys as they happen at Last Of England Twitter. Amazon commission helps cover the running costs of this site
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